Parameters
Important Note
Please read before continuing
Understanding The Nitrogen Cycle is arguably the most important part of preparing for any aquatic pet, and axolotls are no exception to this rule. Axolotls require a robust colony of beneficial bacteria (known scientifically as Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) living in the filter of their aquarium to eat the ammonia that they produce. This removes the need to perform 100% daily water changes, and lowers maintenance in a properly sized aquarium to a simple 50% water change once per week. Whether you are a cycling veteran or brand new to the world of aquatics, please review our cycling guide to make sure you fully understand the concepts, as your axolotl’s life depends on it!
Temperature
Pt. 1
Water temperature must be maintained between 55-68 f at all times. While axolotls are coldwater amphibians, they should not be allowed to drop below 55 unless they are being treated for an infection or similar illness, as instructed by a professional. However, high temperatures are much more dangerous for axolotls. It is recommended to keep the tank temperature below 65 f, however 68 f is a safe upper limit to prevent temperature-induced fungal infections and stress.
Ammonia (NH3)
Pt. 2
Ammonia is a very toxic nitrogen compound produced by all animals as waste. In essence, it’s molecules of poop! Ammonia causes rashes and organ stress when exposure occurs, and will cause death to the inhabitants in high concentrations. Ammonia may be present in tap water, so it is recommended to use Seachem Prime as your dechlorinator, which temporarily detoxifies a specified amount of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate per dose.
Nitrite (NO2−)
Pt. 3
Nitrite is an extremely toxic nitrogen compound that is produced by Nitrosomonas consuming and oxidizing ammonia. Nitrite is rarely present in tap water, however, it is so toxic that any observable amount may cause severe stress and may result in eventual inhabitant death. Nitrite poisoning may present in symptoms such as twitching, erratic swimming, and gill kicking - all of which should be resolved by immediately tubbing the axolotl in 3+ gallons of cold, dechlorinated water.
Nitrate (NO3-)
Pt. 4
Nitrate is a somewhat toxic nitrogen compound that is the end result of The Nitrogen Cycle, as seen in the hobbyist aquarium. It is often present in tap water, in concentrations of 0 ppm - 20 ppm often seen. If your tap water tests above 5-10 ppm nitrate, it is recommended to find an alternative source of water (such as remineralized RO water or spring water) for aquarium use. Nitrate was previously thought to be non-toxic in concentrations under 20 ppm, however, new research has shown that 10 ppm is a much safer maximum concentration for sustained exposure. Symptoms of sustained nitrate exposure include recurrent fungal infections, reduced gill filaments, and declining gill stalks.
pH
Pt. 5
pH is the measure of charged hydrogen ions in the water column. This is measured with an algorithm that few people are paid enough to calculate, therefore it is highly recommended to invest in a KH/GH test kit in addition to the necessary liquid master test kit, which allows for further pH measurement and stabilization. pH, in simpler terms, measures the acidity and alkalinity of the water column, with 7 being the most neutral number, 0 being the most acidic, and 14 being the most alkaline. A pH from 7-8 is safest for axolotls, as acidic conditions cause mucus membrane (slime coat) damage, and more alkaline conditions cause ammonia to become increasingly toxic.
A note: ‘pH chasing’ is a dangerous practice. So long as your pH is within the safe range, don’t mess with it. If the axolotl’s current water falls outside of it, consider drip acclimating the axolotl to a safe pH range.
KH
Pt. 6
KH is Carbonate Hardness, the measure of carbonate and bicarbonate buffers in the water column which raise pH. These carbonates and bicarbonates, also known as buffers, act as protection against acids that cause direct changes to the water pH. If acid were to be seen as a sharp, prickly ion that may cause irritation to living beings (animals, plants, and bacteria) in the tank, buffers can be seen as shields that bind to the acids and keep them from impacting water parameters - until the shield breaks, anyways. Carbonates and bicarbonates are found in alkaline conditions, and are often added to the aquarium as baking soda in very small increments, to raise KH as desired.
GH
Pt. 7
GH is General Hardness, which is the measure of calcium and magnesium combined in the water column. Calcium and magnesium both play essential roles in neurological and physiological functions, being conductive minerals. They are the building blocks of our bodies, without which, our nerves can't send signals to our muscles, our muscles can't move, and our bones can’t be constructed. While an upper limit for GH has not been established for axolotls, GH must not be allowed to fall below 6dGH, and should remain above 8dGH.
Using your liquid test kit can be very difficult, so make sure you follow the instructions very carefully!
GH and KH are measured in either PPM or dGH/dKH. I prefer the latter, but either is fine. 17.8ppm = 1d, however THIS HANDY LINK can convert between the two easily. When using a liquid test kit, you’ll convert directly between total drops to dGH or dKH.
Now that you’ve read up on parameters, it’s time to begin cycling. Good luck!