Ethical Axolotls

Follow this step-by-step guide to learn what to do when you first bring your axolotl home, it covers most of what you need to know to properly acclimate and care for your axolotl in the first 30 days.

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Required Startup Supplies

If you don’t already own these supplies, pick them up before you unbag your axolotl. An appropriately packaged axolotl will tolerate remaining bagged for upwards of 24 hours provided the water does not foul with their waste.

• API Freshwater Liquid Master Test Kit (or other brand LIQUID test kit)
• API GH/KH Liquid Test Kit (or other GH test kit)
• Seachem Prime (or other axolotl-safe dechlorinator)
• Aquarium Salt (or non-iodised 100% pure sea salt)
• Baking Soda (if pH is lower than 7.2)
• Seachem Replenish or Seachem Equilibrium (if tap water is softer than
• 10dGH/180ppm, test with GH kit)
• Digital Thermometer (glass thermometers may shatter)
• 2x 18qt Hefty Tote (or other 2-5 gallon tubs)
• 5 Gallon Bucket (or similar reservoir for treating water)
• Turkey Baster (to remove waste and uneaten food)
• Earthworms (canadian or european nightcrawlers are fine, don’t use red wigglers)

Testing Tap Water For Safety

API Liquid Master and API GH/KH Liquid Test Kits
Read the instructions on the kit before use – these directions are brief and for reference.

Important Notes
– Fill all vials to the mark with 5ml of water before testing.
– Do not dip vials directly into the aquarium.
– Always hold solution bottles completely upside-down when dispensing the test solution.
– Compare all Master Test Kit tests against the included chart in bright lighting.
– Make sure to rinse all vials with hot water immediately after testing.

‘Axolotl Safe’ Tap Water Parameters

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate are all compounds of nitrogen. pH and KH are measures of acidity versus alkalinity. GH is the measure of hard salts (calcium and magnesium) found in water.

Temperature: 50-68f/10 – 20c
Axolotls don’t really get too cold, but dechlorinated ice and frozen water bottles may be used to reduce tub temperature.

Ammonia: 0-0.25 ppm
If your tap water tests above 0.25ppm ammonia, it shouldn’t be used for tubbing, and you should find an alternative source of cleaner water such as RO/DI.

Nitrite: 0 ppm
If your tap water tests with even trace levels of nitrite, it shouldn’t be used for tubbing, and you should find an alternative source of cleaner water such as RO/DI.

Nitrate: 0-5 ppm
If your tap water tests above 5ppm nitrate, it shouldn’t be used for tubbing, and you should find an alternative source of cleaner water such as RO/DI.

pH: 7.2 – 8.4
If your tap water tests below 7.2 pH, it should be raised with baking soda.
If your tap water tests above 8.4 pH, check to see if you have a water softener or pipe erosion. Softened water shouldn’t be used for tubbing, and you should route around the water softener or use an alternative source of water.

GH: 10dGH+ / 180 ppm+
If your tap water tests below 10dGH/180ppm, add Seachem Replenish or Seachem Equilibrium to safely raise the hardness.

KH: 6dKH+ / 110 ppm+
If your tap water tests below 6dKH/110ppm, verify that your pH is stable and above 7.2 and that you do not have a water softener. Low KH is not inherently harmful to axolotls, but can reduce the alkalinity of your water.

Treating Your Tap Water Per Test Results

Assuming your tap water is clean of high levels of nitrogen compounds (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate), it is time to make other corrections and add all necessary treatments.

Fill a 5 gallon bucket with tap water. The following treatments are each per 5 gallon of water. Feel free to calculate other dosages based off of this.

Always add

• 0.5ml of Seachem Prime, or the directed dose of your preferred dechlorinator
  • 2 drops per gallon or 1ml per 10 gallons is instructed per Seachem.
• 1 tablespoon of Aquarium Salt / non-iodised 100% pure sea salt
  • Axolotls tolerate upwards of 1ppt salinity, however it is most beneficial to keep them slightly below 1ppt, which 1tbsp/5gal of salt achieves.
  • Less salt is fine, but axolotls shouldn’t be in completely fresh water – their bodies require sodium chloride as an electrolyte for proper growth.

If pH is below 7.2, add

• Approx. ¼ teaspoon of baking soda
  • Mix well and test the water for regular and high range pH after 15 minutes.
  • If pH rises above 8.4, dilute the mixture with water that has a lower pH.

If GH is below 10dGH/180ppm, add

• 2.5ml of Seachem Replenish per 3dGH that you want to raise the water
  • Example: if the water measures 4dGH, add 5ml to raise it by 6dGH to the appropriate 10dGH.

OR

• ¼ tablespoon of Seachem Equilibrium per 3dGH that you want to raise the water
  • Example: if the water measures 4dGH, add ½ tablespoons to raise it by 6dGH to the appropriate 10dGH.

Unbagging and Acclimating Your Axolotl

1. Open the axolotl’s bag, then gently pour all of the water into the tub along with the axolotl. It’s okay if the water doesn’t yet completely submerge the axolotl.
2. Using a clean pitcher or similar, add enough of the treated bucket water to completely cover the axolotl’s dorsal ridge (back).
3. Add up to one gallon of water each time you add water. The addition of one gallon each 2 – 4 hours is a great structure for your initial acclimation period.
4. After the tub has been filled, or around 3 additional gallons in, you may offer a small amount of food, no more than one European Nightcrawler or around half of a Canadian Nightcrawler, if the axolotl is an adult. If the axolotl is a juvenile, offer just one or two small bites of worm.
5. Plan a care schedule with 12 hours spacing between each water change, and prepare to perform 50% water changes on the tub each time. This timeline of 50% water changes will continue for approximately 48 hours.
6. After the 48 hours have passed, you may begin doing 100% water changes ofthe tub as infrequently as every 24 hours, ensuring the axolotl is not left in poopywater for too long.
7. Perform daily 100% water changes for at least 30 days before your intendeddate of adding the axolotl to the tank, though it is safe to tub the axolotl for alonger period, especially if the tank has not completed cycling.

Now that you’re set up, you can visit our Cycling Guide or contact us to learn about completing your aquarium cycle, as well as preparing for the addition of your axolotl to the aquarium